Before winter arrives, take time to 'tuck in' that garden
Autumn effort reaps spring rewards.
Updated
In advance of winter months, a tape measure can be the gardener’s friend — this shows the proper distance between a tree trunk and protective mulch. Photos by Sue Franck
BY SUE FRANCK
Contributing Writer
Tuck Your Garden In for Winter: A Little Fall Work for Lots of Spring Rewards
The secret to a show-stopping spring garden doesn’t begin in April — it starts right now, during the crisp, chilly days of autumn! Think of putting your garden to bed for winter as tucking in an old friend. A little attention now can help protect your soil, prepare your plants for the cold months ahead, and give you a head start on next year’s growing season. It may not be the most glamorous gardening chore, but your springtime self will thank you.
Before the ground freezes and your gardening gloves disappear into the back of the garage, here are a few practical tips to prepare your lawn, flower beds, vegetable garden, trees, and tools for winter.
Cleaning Up Garden Spaces
As annual flowers and vegetable plants fade, pull them out and add them to the compost pile — provided they are healthy. Plants affected by serious diseases or pests should be discarded appropriately rather than composted, unless your composting method is designed to destroy those problems. The goal is to avoid giving unwanted garden visitors a cozy place to spend the winter.
Perennials, however, deserve a little more consideration before you reach for the pruning shears. Their standing stems, seed heads, and foliage can provide shelter and food for beneficial insects and pollinators during the colder months. Leaving some garden cleanup until spring also gives your beds winter interest and provides birds with a few natural snacks.
Of course, some plants benefit from a fall haircut. Peonies can be cut back after their foliage dies to help reduce the risk of disease; hostas, irises and daylilies can also be tidied up once their foliage has died back. Plants prone to powdery mildew or other diseases may also need fall cleanup. When in doubt, check the needs of the particular plant before cutting everything to the ground.
Fall is also a good time to divide many spring-blooming perennials that have outgrown their space. Save the division of fall-blooming perennials for spring when they have a better opportunity to establish themselves before their next flowering season. Remember, plants appreciate a little personal space, too!
Planting Spring Bulbs: A Promise of Color
When autumn arrives, it’s tempting to declare gardening season over. But hold on to that trowel! Fall is prime time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils, hyacinths, tulips, and crocus corms.
The ideal time is generally after the soil has cooled from summer’s heat but about three to four weeks before the ground freezes. This gives bulbs time to develop roots before winter settles in. Come spring, those seemingly lifeless bulbs will reward your efforts with cheerful splashes of color when the rest of the garden is just waking up.
Before adding fertilizer, check the soil conditions and the recommendations for the particular bulbs you are planting. A phosphorus-rich fertilizer is not automatically necessary; too much of a good thing can be wasteful or harmful. Healthy soil and proper planting depth are better starting points than assuming every bulb needs an extra helping of fertilizer.
Along with other flowering bulbs, fall is a great time to plant crocus “corms” for spring garden groupings (above), but they should be properly placed at a 3-inch depth. Below, “fan cut” on iris plants.
Weed Control: Catching Weeds While They’re Off Guard
Weeds may look tired and bedraggled by fall, but don’t let their appearance fool you. Many perennial weeds, including dandelions and Canada thistle, are busy moving nutrients from their leaves down into their roots to prepare for winter.
That seasonal activity can make fall an effective time to control certain perennial weeds with an appropriate herbicide. When plants are actively transporting resources to their roots, some herbicides can travel along with them, improving control.
Always identify the weed first and follow the herbicide label carefully, including instructions about temperature, timing, and nearby desirable plants. Not every weed responds the same way, and some treatments are ineffective once plants have stopped growing. A little strategic planning now can mean fewer unwelcome green guests next spring!
Soil Amendments and Mulch: Preparing the Groundwork
Fall is an excellent time to improve your soil; but first, find out what it actually needs. A soil test can reveal nutrient deficiencies and help you choose the right amendments rather than relying on guesswork.
Bone meal is sometimes recommended to encourage root development because it supplies phosphorus and calcium. However, adding it without knowing your soil’s nutrient levels can do more harm than good. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability of other nutrients and may contribute to environmental problems when it washes into waterways. Let your soil test, rather than gardening folklore, guide your decisions.
If your soil needs amendments, incorporate the recommended materials according to the test results and product instructions. In many established gardens, it is best to hold off on routine fertilizer applications in late fall. Plants are slowing their growth, and nutrients that are not taken up may be lost before spring. Specific recommendations can vary by plant type and local conditions.
One fall task that nearly every garden can benefit from is mulching. Apply a two- to three-inch layer of organic mulch around perennials, shrubs, and trees to help moderate soil temperatures, conserve moisture, reduce erosion, and suppress weeds. Suitable materials include bark, pine needles, and chopped leaves. Grass clippings can also be used in thin, dry layers, provided they have not been treated with products unsuitable for the area.
Keep mulch a few inches away from tree trunks and the crowns of perennial plants. Piling it against trunks — a practice sometimes called “volcano mulching” — can encourage rot and invite pests. Think cozy blanket, not smothering comforter.
As organic mulch breaks down, it adds organic matter to the soil and helps improve its structure. That can support better moisture retention and drainage, giving next year’s garden a healthier foundation.
Tree Hydration: A Long Drink Before Bedtime
Trees and shrubs need water in winter, too, especially evergreens that continue losing moisture through their needles and leaves. If autumn has been dry, water trees and shrubs deeply several times before the ground freezes, adjusting for rainfall, soil conditions, and the needs of the plants. Well-hydrated plants are better prepared for winter stress and are less likely to suffer from winter desiccation, which can cause browning needles or foliage.
Young trees and those with thin bark may also benefit from protective trunk wraps in areas where winter sun and fluctuating temperatures can cause damage. Some types of winter injury occur when sunny daytime conditions warm the bark and nighttime temperatures drop sharply. Use an appropriate tree wrap according to the manufacturer’s directions, and remove it at the recommended time to avoid trapping moisture or providing shelter for pests.
While you are preparing trees for winter, don’t forget the irrigation system. Water left in hoses, sprinklers, and irrigation lines can freeze, expand, and cause cracks or broken fittings. Before freezing weather arrives, disconnect and drain hoses, shut down the irrigation system according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and use compressed air only when appropriate for the system and at the recommended pressure. Store hoses somewhere protected from freezing temperatures if possible.
A little preparation now can prevent a frustrating discovery next spring: turning on the water and finding that your irrigation system has decided to spring a leak!
Gardening Tool Care: Show Your Tools Some Love
Finally, give your gardening tools a little attention before sending them into winter retirement. Shovels, trowels, hoes, and pruning shears work hard all season and they deserve more than being tossed into a damp corner of the shed.
Start by removing dirt and grime with a stiff brush. Clean and dry metal surfaces thoroughly, then sharpen blades with an appropriate file or sharpening stone, or have them professionally sharpened. Sharp tools make cleaner cuts, work more efficiently, and can reduce unnecessary damage to plants and trees. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for cleaning and sharpening each tool.
Wooden handles need attention, too. Exposure to moisture and temperature changes can leave wood dry, rough, and prone to splintering. Smooth rough spots with medium-grit sandpaper, then apply a light coat of linseed oil according to the product directions. Allow the handle to dry thoroughly before storing the tool. Wipe excess oil from the handle and dispose of oil-soaked rags safely, since linseed-oil rags can heat up and ignite if handled improperly.
Store your tools in a dry place, and they’ll be ready to return to duty when spring arrives. After all, a gardener is only as happy as the tools within reach!
A Little Work Now, a Happier Garden Later
Putting the garden to bed for winter doesn’t mean doing every chore on the list or making every flower bed look perfectly tidy. It means making thoughtful choices that protect plants, nurture the soil, conserve resources, and reduce next year’s workload.
Once completed, put your feet up, enjoy a warm drink, and admire the garden one last time before winter takes over. You’ve earned the rest — and your garden will be better prepared to wake up refreshed, healthy, and ready to grow when spring returns!
OCTOBER TIP BOX
~ Clean Up Wisely: Remove diseased plants but leave perennial foliage standing through winter to provide shelter for beneficial insects and pollinators.
~ Mulch for Protection: Apply 2–3 inches of mulch, keeping it away from tree trunks and plant crowns.
~ Winterize & Store: Drain hoses and irrigation lines, clean and sharpen tools, and store them in a dry place.
~ Interested in learning more? Online searches offer many options, but research-based gardening information is most reliable when found on .edu and .org websites, including WSU Master Gardeners. You can also get personalized local advice by emailing WSU Grant-Adams Master Gardeners at ga.mgvolunteers@wsu.edu.
ALL ABOUT SUE
An Ephrata-area resident since 1959, Sue Franck is a retired dental hygienist and certified WSU Master Gardener for Grant-Adams counties. Happiest when getting her hands dirty, Sue operates her seedling business, Blissful Blooms, and has been a vendor at the Moses Lake Farmers Market since 2022, selling vegetable and flower starts. Her gardening column appears regularly at GCJ.news.
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Before winter arrives, take time to 'tuck in' that garden
Autumn effort reaps spring rewards.
BY SUE FRANCK
Contributing Writer
Tuck Your Garden In for Winter: A Little Fall Work for Lots of Spring Rewards
The secret to a show-stopping spring garden doesn’t begin in April — it starts right now, during the crisp, chilly days of autumn! Think of putting your garden to bed for winter as tucking in an old friend. A little attention now can help protect your soil, prepare your plants for the cold months ahead, and give you a head start on next year’s growing season. It may not be the most glamorous gardening chore, but your springtime self will thank you.
Before the ground freezes and your gardening gloves disappear into the back of the garage, here are a few practical tips to prepare your lawn, flower beds, vegetable garden, trees, and tools for winter.
Cleaning Up Garden Spaces
As annual flowers and vegetable plants fade, pull them out and add them to the compost pile — provided they are healthy. Plants affected by serious diseases or pests should be discarded appropriately rather than composted, unless your composting method is designed to destroy those problems. The goal is to avoid giving unwanted garden visitors a cozy place to spend the winter.
Perennials, however, deserve a little more consideration before you reach for the pruning shears. Their standing stems, seed heads, and foliage can provide shelter and food for beneficial insects and pollinators during the colder months. Leaving some garden cleanup until spring also gives your beds winter interest and provides birds with a few natural snacks.
Of course, some plants benefit from a fall haircut. Peonies can be cut back after their foliage dies to help reduce the risk of disease; hostas, irises and daylilies can also be tidied up once their foliage has died back. Plants prone to powdery mildew or other diseases may also need fall cleanup. When in doubt, check the needs of the particular plant before cutting everything to the ground.
Fall is also a good time to divide many spring-blooming perennials that have outgrown their space. Save the division of fall-blooming perennials for spring when they have a better opportunity to establish themselves before their next flowering season. Remember, plants appreciate a little personal space, too!
Planting Spring Bulbs: A Promise of Color
When autumn arrives, it’s tempting to declare gardening season over. But hold on to that trowel! Fall is prime time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils, hyacinths, tulips, and crocus corms.
The ideal time is generally after the soil has cooled from summer’s heat but about three to four weeks before the ground freezes. This gives bulbs time to develop roots before winter settles in. Come spring, those seemingly lifeless bulbs will reward your efforts with cheerful splashes of color when the rest of the garden is just waking up.
Before adding fertilizer, check the soil conditions and the recommendations for the particular bulbs you are planting. A phosphorus-rich fertilizer is not automatically necessary; too much of a good thing can be wasteful or harmful. Healthy soil and proper planting depth are better starting points than assuming every bulb needs an extra helping of fertilizer.
Weed Control: Catching Weeds While They’re Off Guard
Weeds may look tired and bedraggled by fall, but don’t let their appearance fool you. Many perennial weeds, including dandelions and Canada thistle, are busy moving nutrients from their leaves down into their roots to prepare for winter.
That seasonal activity can make fall an effective time to control certain perennial weeds with an appropriate herbicide. When plants are actively transporting resources to their roots, some herbicides can travel along with them, improving control.
Always identify the weed first and follow the herbicide label carefully, including instructions about temperature, timing, and nearby desirable plants. Not every weed responds the same way, and some treatments are ineffective once plants have stopped growing. A little strategic planning now can mean fewer unwelcome green guests next spring!
Soil Amendments and Mulch: Preparing the Groundwork
Fall is an excellent time to improve your soil; but first, find out what it actually needs. A soil test can reveal nutrient deficiencies and help you choose the right amendments rather than relying on guesswork.
Bone meal is sometimes recommended to encourage root development because it supplies phosphorus and calcium. However, adding it without knowing your soil’s nutrient levels can do more harm than good. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability of other nutrients and may contribute to environmental problems when it washes into waterways. Let your soil test, rather than gardening folklore, guide your decisions.
If your soil needs amendments, incorporate the recommended materials according to the test results and product instructions. In many established gardens, it is best to hold off on routine fertilizer applications in late fall. Plants are slowing their growth, and nutrients that are not taken up may be lost before spring. Specific recommendations can vary by plant type and local conditions.
One fall task that nearly every garden can benefit from is mulching. Apply a two- to three-inch layer of organic mulch around perennials, shrubs, and trees to help moderate soil temperatures, conserve moisture, reduce erosion, and suppress weeds. Suitable materials include bark, pine needles, and chopped leaves. Grass clippings can also be used in thin, dry layers, provided they have not been treated with products unsuitable for the area.
Keep mulch a few inches away from tree trunks and the crowns of perennial plants. Piling it against trunks — a practice sometimes called “volcano mulching” — can encourage rot and invite pests. Think cozy blanket, not smothering comforter.
As organic mulch breaks down, it adds organic matter to the soil and helps improve its structure. That can support better moisture retention and drainage, giving next year’s garden a healthier foundation.
Tree Hydration: A Long Drink Before Bedtime
Trees and shrubs need water in winter, too, especially evergreens that continue losing moisture through their needles and leaves. If autumn has been dry, water trees and shrubs deeply several times before the ground freezes, adjusting for rainfall, soil conditions, and the needs of the plants. Well-hydrated plants are better prepared for winter stress and are less likely to suffer from winter desiccation, which can cause browning needles or foliage.
Young trees and those with thin bark may also benefit from protective trunk wraps in areas where winter sun and fluctuating temperatures can cause damage. Some types of winter injury occur when sunny daytime conditions warm the bark and nighttime temperatures drop sharply. Use an appropriate tree wrap according to the manufacturer’s directions, and remove it at the recommended time to avoid trapping moisture or providing shelter for pests.
While you are preparing trees for winter, don’t forget the irrigation system. Water left in hoses, sprinklers, and irrigation lines can freeze, expand, and cause cracks or broken fittings. Before freezing weather arrives, disconnect and drain hoses, shut down the irrigation system according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and use compressed air only when appropriate for the system and at the recommended pressure. Store hoses somewhere protected from freezing temperatures if possible.
A little preparation now can prevent a frustrating discovery next spring: turning on the water and finding that your irrigation system has decided to spring a leak!
Gardening Tool Care: Show Your Tools Some Love
Finally, give your gardening tools a little attention before sending them into winter retirement. Shovels, trowels, hoes, and pruning shears work hard all season and they deserve more than being tossed into a damp corner of the shed.
Start by removing dirt and grime with a stiff brush. Clean and dry metal surfaces thoroughly, then sharpen blades with an appropriate file or sharpening stone, or have them professionally sharpened. Sharp tools make cleaner cuts, work more efficiently, and can reduce unnecessary damage to plants and trees. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for cleaning and sharpening each tool.
Wooden handles need attention, too. Exposure to moisture and temperature changes can leave wood dry, rough, and prone to splintering. Smooth rough spots with medium-grit sandpaper, then apply a light coat of linseed oil according to the product directions. Allow the handle to dry thoroughly before storing the tool. Wipe excess oil from the handle and dispose of oil-soaked rags safely, since linseed-oil rags can heat up and ignite if handled improperly.
Store your tools in a dry place, and they’ll be ready to return to duty when spring arrives. After all, a gardener is only as happy as the tools within reach!
A Little Work Now, a Happier Garden Later
Putting the garden to bed for winter doesn’t mean doing every chore on the list or making every flower bed look perfectly tidy. It means making thoughtful choices that protect plants, nurture the soil, conserve resources, and reduce next year’s workload.
Once completed, put your feet up, enjoy a warm drink, and admire the garden one last time before winter takes over. You’ve earned the rest — and your garden will be better prepared to wake up refreshed, healthy, and ready to grow when spring returns!
OCTOBER TIP BOX
~ Clean Up Wisely: Remove diseased plants but leave perennial foliage standing through winter to provide shelter for beneficial insects and pollinators.
~ Mulch for Protection: Apply 2–3 inches of mulch, keeping it away from tree trunks and plant crowns.
~ Winterize & Store: Drain hoses and irrigation lines, clean and sharpen tools, and store them in a dry place.
~ Interested in learning more? Online searches offer many options, but research-based gardening information is most reliable when found on .edu and .org websites, including WSU Master Gardeners. You can also get personalized local advice by emailing WSU Grant-Adams Master Gardeners at ga.mgvolunteers@wsu.edu.
ALL ABOUT SUE
An Ephrata-area resident since 1959, Sue Franck is a retired dental hygienist and certified WSU Master Gardener for Grant-Adams counties. Happiest when getting her hands dirty, Sue operates her seedling business, Blissful Blooms, and has been a vendor at the Moses Lake Farmers Market since 2022, selling vegetable and flower starts. Her gardening column appears regularly at GCJ.news.